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Trad Series: Leading Trad

$239 plus tax

This course is designed for climbers looking to become competent leading natural-protection routes. Traditional (trad) climbing leaves little or no trace, preserving the natural environment of the cliff face. It is an essential skill for mountaineering, rescue, desert and big wall climbing. Trad leading opens a broad spectrum of climbs unavailable to sport climbers. Participants will learn the intricacies of placing gear on lead with a backup top rope, under the watchful eye of a professional climbing guide.

Course Dates

  • May 9, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Jun 6, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Jun 27, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Jul 18, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Aug 15, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Sep 19, 2026 (Saturday)

What Our Clients Say

  • If you’re looking for a guide service in the Wasatch, you should look no further than UMA. Our backpacking trip with Tyson was flawlessly executed and Tyson was a delight to work with. Great experience with a thoroughly knowledgeable guide. I’ve booked with some of the most highly regarded guide services in the country and UMA is right up there with best of them.

    Geoff G.

    July 2023 Google

  • I’ve done a few events with UMA over the last few years. Always impressed with the knowledge and experience of their guides and the quality of the instruction. Recently did South Superior with Tyson and Winslow. Felt very safe and received helpful education and instruction along the way. Definitely a fun and exciting experience. Friendly guides made for a great time.

    Matthew H.

    June 2026 Google

  • Everything from start to finish with Utah Mountain Adventures went smoothly, thanks to our guide, Ben Farrar, who put together and executed our excellent adventure. Ben asked all the right questions to understand what we wanted from our backcountry trip, and made a plan that met our needs and was adaptive to the conditions. He kept us moving at a pace to achieve our objectives and had backup plans to do more if there was time and desire, or make changes if the conditions or terrain were not favorable. He provided just the right amount of support and tips along the way. And it was just such a pleasure to hang out with Ben! We were grateful that somehow he managed to take photos and videos along the way and shared them with us at the end of the day. 10 out of 10! (and that is saying something in a very low snow year)

    Beth P.

    February 2026 Google

This course is ideal for climbers ready to lead natural-protection routes and gain independence in trad climbing. Under the guidance of a professional climbing instructor, participants will learn the intricacies of placing gear on “mock-lead” while backed up on top rope for security. Emphasis is placed on evaluating placements, building anchors and route planning — all foundational skills for alpine, rescue, desert and big wall objectives. Trad climbing offers access to classic Wasatch lines that sport climbers can’t reach, while preserving the natural rock and minimizing impact.

Leading Trad Course Objectives
  • Efficient and attentive lead belaying
  • Gear selection and racking
  • Where and how to place stoppers (nuts) and cams
  • Finding stances for placing protection
  • Building and equalizing anchors with natural protection
  • Protecting traverses for both the leader and the follower
  • Tips and tricks for route-finding in crack systems
  • Climbing tips for leading cracks and other terrain
  • Avoiding short roping
  • A discussion of future routes to practice on
Max Student : Instructor Ratio

3 : 1

Course dates don’t fit your schedule?

Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.

Course Prerequisites
  • Have experience belaying and top rope climbing.
  • Knowledge of sport leading is recommended.
Fitness & Skill Level
  • You must be able to easily hike 1 mile on variable, uneven terrain (at 7,000′-10,000′ elevation) from the trailhead to access rock climbing crags.
  • This is an intermediate course.

This full-day course takes place in one of Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 8 hours). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (1-2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.

SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION

The usual meeting time and place are 8 am at the Big Cottonwood Park & Ride lot, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to registered guests before the course date.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you directly by email to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.

How To Register

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 3 participants register.

Trad Series: Leading Trad COURSE EQUIPMENT LIST
  • Comfortable and flexible pants or shorts, and a shirt
  • Waterproof/windproof outer shell jacket
  • Light puffy overcoat and or other insulation layer (fleece, synthetic or down)
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • 1 to 2 liters of water
  • Lunch and quick energy snacks
  • Approach shoes (no sandals)
  • Day pack (~25-45 liters)
  • Harness
  • Belay device
  • Helmet
  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Personal rock climbing equipment (optional)

Please see our Rock Climbing Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.

Recommended Guidebooks

Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range by Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Ferguson to Lone Peak: A Granite Guide by Nikki Smith, Andrew Burr and Tyler Philips

Please see our main FAQ page for general questions or for anything not covered below. 

Will I be able to practice leading?

Yes, a backup top rope is always included for safety. Typically, the guide belays on a gri-gri while jugging up a fixed rope beside the new leader. This enables the instructor to give immediate feedback on the effectiveness of cam and stopper placements.

Do I need my own climbing rack?

The guide will have all the necessary gear. If you own a climbing rack (quickdraws, cams and stoppers), personal anchor system or other equipment, we encourage you to bring it so you can learn how to use your gear.

How old do I need to be to climb?

Students must be at least 14 years old to join one of our group courses, which are catered to adults. We offer Youth Camps for youth 17 and under.

Should I wear pants or shorts?

Shorts are nicer for warm days, but long pants will protect your legs from abrasive rock. If shorts are preferred, they should be long enough to go under the leg loops of the harness.

How tight should my rock shoes fit?

For trad and crack climbing routes, get a half-size bigger shoe than the sales or rental clerk recommends. Toes should be flat rather than curled inside the shoe, which is better for jamming and smearing. Nothing spoils the fun like foot pain!

Where do I meet my guide?

The guide will arrange a specific meeting location and time with you. Most commonly, this location is the Big Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride lot.

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