Toledo Peak Alpine Climb
UMA’s Toledo Peak Alpine Climb allows you to combine ice axe and crampon training with climbing a spectacular, rugged, mixed rock and snow alpine climb along the well-protected West Ridge of Toledo. This full-day, 2,000′ ascent involves an approach from Alta, usually on snowshoes or skis. Along the way, your guide will teach a snow mountaineering skills session.
Course Dates
- Dec 6, 2025 (Saturday)
- Jan 24, 2026 (Saturday)
- Mar 7, 2026 (Saturday)
This 2,000′ ascent involves an approach from Alta, usually on snowshoes or skis. Along the way, your guide will teach a snow mountaineering skills session. This includes the use of an ice axe for self-belay and climbing in control on steep, firm snow. Self-arrest with an ice axe will also be taught.
Upon reaching the rocky West Ridge of Toledo, the guide will lead a series of chimneys and rocky ridge pitches, culminating in a spectacular 10,500′ Wasatch summit.
Participants will learn mixed rock and snow climbing (usually in crampons) and removal of rock protection and anchors. Descent is to the East down the Toledo Bowl on foot, glissade, snowshoes or skis.
Toledo Peak Alpine Climb Outcomes
- Climb technical terrain with crampons and an ice axe
- Learn to climb mixed rock and snow terrain
- Introduction to fixed and running belay
- Clean gear and anchors
- Summit Toledo
- Practice glissading and self-arrest
Max Student : Instructor Ratio
3 : 1
Next steps and other options
The West Ridge of Toledo is great preparation for the South Ridge of Superior (Spring/Winter conditions). Our Crevasse Rescue, Overnight Expedition Training (2-Day) Training and Overnight Denali Training (3-Day) courses are the next steps to hone your mountaineering skills.
Course dates don’t fit your schedule?
Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.
Course Prerequisites
- No previous ice axe, crampon or rock climbing experience is required.
Skill & Fitness Level
- This is a beginner mountaineering climb.
- Moderate fitness is necessary to climb 2,000′ in snow.
This full-day climb takes place on Toledo Peak (expect to be in the field for 8 hours). Participants should bring their own snacks, lunch and water (2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.
SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION
The usual meeting time and place are 7:30 am in the Flagstaff Early Morning Parking Lot in Alta.
GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR
You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.
TRANSPORTATION & PARKING
Transportation will not be provided. Flagstaff Lot requires a reservation and a parking fee.
How To Register
- Register Online
- Call us at (801) 550-3986
- Email us at [email protected]
UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 2 participants register.
Toledo Peak Alpine Climb EQUIPMENT LIST
- Non-cotton top and bottom base layers
- Puffy, hooded overcoat and/or other insulation layer (fleece, synthetic or down)
- Waterproof/windproof outer shell jacket and pants
- Waterproof snow gloves and mittens or spare gloves
- Lightweight climbing and/or fleece gloves
- Warm hat or balaclava for under your helmet
- Baseball cap (optional)
- Sunglasses and goggles
- Sunscreen
- 2 liters of water (water bag/bladder not recommended)
- Lunch and quick energy snacks
- Crampon-compatible mountaineering boots with rigid sole
- Gaiters
- Mountaineering crampons (non-rigid, 10-point lightweight designs are ideal)
- Mountaineering axe
- Snowshoes and poles (check with your guide if you’d like to use skis or a splitboard)
- Backpack (25-45 liters)
- Harness
- Belay device
- Helmet
- Beacon
- Shovel
- Probe
Please see our Winter/Spring Mountaineering Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.
Recommended Books
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers
Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.
What type of crampons should I use?
10-point, hinged, flexible, lash-on spikes made of light metal (including aluminum) are ideal and adaptable to almost any boot. Step-in crampons are fine, but they won’t fit on softer boots that lack heel and toe rands for attachment. 12-point water-ice crampons are fine, but heavier than necessary.
What type of Ice Axe and Leash is best?
A mountaineering axe usually has a straight shaft (as opposed to the radically curved shafts and reverse-droop picks designed specifically for water-ice and mixed climbing). Some newer mountaineering axes include a bend only in the upper shaft, and this is fine. Preferred length is 50-75 cm.
Given that many Wasatch routes are on a mix of rock, ice, and snow, a shorter axe is easier to stow for pure rock moves. For this reason, a RETAINER leash connected to the harness is required so the tool can’t be dropped. The best type is a 5′ long, single-strand of 1/2″ webbing attached with a water knot on the pick side of the axe head. Wrist loops are for steep ice and are NOT helpful for mountaineering.
Should I use snowshoes or skis/splitboard?
Snowshoes are recommended. Skis and splitboards are longer and get in the way while climbing the technical pitches. If using skis or a splitboard, mastery of skinning and expertise in downhill backcountry riding are required. Please discuss this with your guide.
Is this a useful course for ski mountaineering?
Yes, this climb will teach you some essential ski mountaineering skills.
Where do I meet my guide?
Before the start of the course, your guide/instructor will confirm by email the meeting time and location. Most commonly, this location is the Flagstaff Lot in Alta.
