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rock self rescue students practice
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Rock Self-Rescue / AMGA Course Prep

$239 plus tax

UMA’s self-rescue rock climbing course teaches the skills to help you and your partner deal with the unexpected during a climb. Learn to escape the belay, raise and lower a climber, and other skills. UMA guides use systems and techniques taught in AMGA and other guide trainings, making this course a great primer for aspiring guides and mountain professionals, as well as recreational climbers.

Course Dates

  • Jun 13, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Aug 1, 2026 (Saturday)
  • Sep 19, 2026 (Saturday)

Ever wondered what you would do if your partner gets injured on a multi-pitch route? What if your ropes get stuck while on rappel? What if your second can’t pull past a crux, or is hanging in mid-air below a roof? What if you dropped your belay device from the top of pitch 7, and now you have to rappel? This course teaches you the skills and techniques necessary for self-rescue on the climbing route.

UMA’s Self-Rescue Rock Climbing Course Objectives
  • Escaping the belay
  • Raising a climber
  • Lowering a climber from an auto-locking device
  • Ascending a fixed rope
  • 2:1, 3:1, 5:1 and 6:1 hauling systems
  • Tandem rappels
  • Pre-rigged rappels
  • Friction hitches for multiple applications
  • Improvised belaying
  • Improvised chest harnesses
  • A variety of other useful knots and hitches
Max Student : Instructor Ratio

4 : 1

Course dates don’t fit your schedule?

Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.

Course Prerequisites
  • Knowledge of anchor-building, primary knots and hitches is helpful.
Fitness & Skill Level
  • You must be an experienced lead climber.
  • This is an intermediate to advanced course.
  • Have a mastery of the Munter Mule Overhand hitch/knot, autoblock, Prussik and/or other friction hitches.

This full-day course takes place in one of Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 8 hours). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (1-2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation.

SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION

The usual meeting time and place are 8 am at the Big Cottonwood Park & Ride lot, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to registered guests before the course date.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you directly by email to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Canyon parking lots may require a parking fee.

How To Register

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 2 participants register.

Self-Rescue / AMGA Prep COURSE EQUIPMENT LIST
  • Climbing pants or shorts
  • Climbing shirt (collared T-shirt and/or hoody recommended)
  • Houdini or other windshirt (optional)
  • Waterproof/windproof outer shell jacket
  • Light puffy overcoat or other insulation layer (depending on current weather)
  • Sunglasses
  • Belay glasses (optional)
  • Sunscreen (we recommend putting it on in advance so hands are not greasy)
  • 1-2 liters of water (water bag recommended for multi-pitch)
  • Lunch and quick energy snacks
  • Sticky rubber approach shoes (or rock climbing shoes)
  • Backpack (25-45 liters)
  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • Belay/rappel device
  • Pear-shaped locking carabiner
  • Prusik loops
  • Petzl Tibloc or Micro Traxion
  • Cordelette
  • Double length sling (48″ runner)
  • 4 additional locking carabiners

Please see our Rock Climbing Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.

Recommended Guidebooks

Climbing Self-Rescue: Essential Skills, Technical Tips & Improvised Solutions by Ian Nicholson

Please see our main FAQ page for general questions or for anything not covered below. 

How old do I need to be to climb?

Students must be at least 14 years old to join one of our group courses, which are catered to adults.

Do I need my own climbing rack and rescue gear?

The guide will have all the necessary gear. If you own anchor materials and rescue gear, a personal anchor system or other gear, we encourage you to bring them so you can practice with your equipment.

Where do I meet my guide?

The guide will arrange a specific meeting location and time with you. Most commonly, this location is the Big Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride lot.

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