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Guided Peaks

please contact us for trip options and pricing

The Wasatch Range near Salt Lake City is home to various types of alpine climbs, from mixed to dry alpine rock. Hiring a private guide enables our guests to attain summits, train and practice skills in all seasons and on their own schedule. Some of our favorite Utah alpine routes include Toledo Peak, Mt. Superior, Pfeifferhorn, Lone Peak, The Sundial and Mt. Olympus.

Custom or private guiding means you have a guide dedicated to you or your group, rather than being in a class or clinic that is open to other guests. UMA’s outstanding guides and instructors are available daily to lead climbs and help guests progress in any and all aspects of climbing.

Some of our favorite Utah alpine routes include the following (many other routes are also available). The options listed below are some, but not all, possible alpine climbs. Contact UMA to customize your outing.

Mixed Alpine Climbs

Mixed rock and snow routes are exciting, challenging and fun. They often lead to beautiful summits. Ice axe and crampons are typically used, even on rock sections, to avoid transitions. This helps UMA guests prepare for climbing in the Alps, Himalayas and the like. Mixed alpine climbs are in prime condition in winter and spring.

West Ridge of Toledo Peak

Reach a spectacular, 10,530′ Wasatch summit via the rugged, but well-protected West Ridge. This 2,000′ ascent involves an approach from Alta, usually on snowshoes or skis. Along the way, suitable areas exist for a snow mountaineering skills session (i.e., practicing the use ofan  axe and crampons in snow). Descent is to the east down Toledo Bowl or north into Cardiff Fork, on foot, glissade, snowshoes or skis/splitboard.

Mount Superior East Ridge

The 11,050′ Mt. Superior presides over the Snowbird and Alta ski areas and offers spectacular, 360-degree summit views. East Ridge is a rewarding 2,500′ hike/scramble. It is a suitable first alpine climb, and is relatively non-technical, except for some exposed, Class 3 scrambling near the summit.

Mount Superior South Ridge

The prominent South Ridge of this iconic Wasatch peak rises 3,000′ from near Snowbird Ski Resort in Little Cottonwood Canyon to the 11,050′ summit. Outstanding views, fun climbing moves, high-quality rock and an airy feeling make this a classic route in any season. The hardest move is rated 5.6.

Typically, 1,000′ of exposed climbing along the knife-edge crest is roped. Protection includes slings, passive protection, snow-pro, stoppers and cams. Guides may employ running belays, short-pitching and short-roping. Descent is generally along the easier East Ridge and down to Alta via Cardiff Pass.

Pfeifferhorn East Ridge

Deep in the heart of the rugged Lone Peak Wilderness stands the iconic Pfeifferhorn. After a 4-mile approach with 4,000′ of vertical gain, this ascent includes steep scrambling to reach the top. In winter, the approach is on touring skis with skins, splitboard or snowshoes. An ice axe and crampons provide security up and down the steep summit slopes. In summer, light hikers work well for the mostly dry trail and rocky summit triangle.

Pfeifferhorn North Ridge (Overnight)

The classic winter mixed snow and rock alpine route in the Central Wasatch Range is the North Ridge of the “Pfeiff.” Approach from White Pine Parking Lot on day 1 using skis, splitboard or snowshoes for flotation in the snow. A weather-proof snow camp will be established around 10,000′ in Maybird Gulch. Enjoy a quiet night in a cozy tent with a warm down sleeping bag.

Rise early, brew up and warm up on a short approach to the base of the peak. A steep, east-facing snow couloir leads to the rocky summit ridge. The ridge is scaled in 7 pitches of fixed belays, usually wearing crampons and employing a combination of ice axe placements and hand holds on the granite. Finish on a ribbon of moderate snow high in the sky. Descent is via the more moderate East Ridge, and may include glissading on the northeast apron.

Alpine Rock Climbs

Alpine rock climbs involve an approach hike, and can be on granite, quartzite and limestone formations. These are best done in summer and early fall, when the rock is snow-free. Duration of climbs ranges from partial to long single days, to overnight and multi-day options.

Mt. Olympus West Slabs

Fun, 5.5-level climbing allows for efficient movement up 10 pitches on the 65-degree, 1800′ northwest face. Start early, approach and climb the face and enjoy the commanding views all day. Descent is via down-climbing to the west and rappelling.

Lone Peak

The Lone Peak Cirque offers world-class alpine rock climbs from scrambles to 5.14. Most climbers spend one or more nights sleeping in the cirque and climbing classic routes. Ultra-fit parties can approach, climb and hike down in one VERY long day. Camping at 10,000′ in the cirque is beautiful and generally quiet, owing to the strenuous, 4,500′ approach.

Have Questions or Concerns?
Prerequisites
  • Prerequisites vary based on the trip.
  • No previous mountaineering or climbing experience necessary for some trips.
Skill Level & Fitness
  • UMA can tailor custom guiding to your specific goals, levels and time frame.
  • Beginner to advanced trips are available.
  • Moderate to strong fitness is helpful.

Private alpine climbs take place in one of Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 6-10 hours, depending on the difficulty and the length of the approach, or for multiple days if on an overnight trip). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (2-3 liters). UMA does not provide transportation.

SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION

The usual meeting time and place are 6 am at the Big or Little Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride lots, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to registered guests before the course date.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to discuss your skills and goals, weather considerations and equipment needs, and to decide on a meeting time and location.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.

How To Register

Private guiding is customized to your personal needs and requests. Rates may vary accordingly. State and local taxes will be added. Gratuity not included.

Please contact us for trip options and pricing.

Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.

What type of crampons should I use?

10-point, hinged, flexible, lash-on spikes made of light metal (including aluminum) are ideal and adaptable to almost any boot. Step-in crampons are fine, but they won’t fit on softer boots that lack heel and toe rands for attachment. 12-point water-ice crampons are fine, but heavier than necessary.

What type of Ice Axe and Leash is best?

A mountaineering axe usually has a straight shaft (as opposed to the radically curved shafts and reverse-droop picks designed specifically for water-ice and mixed climbing). Some newer mountaineering axes include a bend only in the upper shaft, and this is fine. Preferred length is 50-75 cm.

Given that many Wasatch routes are on a mix of rock, ice, and snow, a shorter axe is easier to stow for pure rock moves. For this reason, a RETAINER leash connected to the harness is required so the tool can’t be dropped. The best type is a 5′ long, single-strand of 1/2″ webbing attached with a water knot on the pick side of the axe head. Wrist loops are for steep ice and are NOT helpful for mountaineering.

Should I use snowshoes or skis/splitboard?

Snowshoes are recommended. Skis and splitboards are longer and get in the way while climbing the technical pitches. If using skis or a splitboard, mastery of skinning and expertise in downhill backcountry riding are required. Please discuss this with your guide.

HOW OLD DO I NEED TO BE TO CLIMB?

For private guiding and instruction, there is no age restriction. Longer approaches and long climbs are typically not appropriate for kids under 11.

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