Mt. Olympus Medusa Face (Spring/Snow)
Mount Olympus’ West Slab, aka Medusa Face, is a classic multi-pitch climb with spectacular views of Salt Lake Valley and the Great Salt Lake. In spring conditions, the ascent includes climbing the snowy couloir below the face with crampons and an ice axe. This climb offers a fantastic training ground to learn many essential mountaineering skills.
Course Dates
- May 30, 2026 (Saturday)
UMA’s Mt. Olympus Medusa Face climb starts with a snow ascent with crampons and an ice axe up the approach couloir to the base of the face. We then switch out to sticky rubber approach shoes or comfortable multi-pitch rock climbing shoes for a fun, 5.5-level climb, allowing for efficient movement up 10 pitches on the 65-degree, 1800′ face. The descent is down a couloir, combining a mix of down climbing and short rappels, then descending on crampons the lower couloir.
Mt. Olympus Medusa Face (Spring/Snow) Climb Outcomes
- Practice climbing and descending steep snow with crampons and an ice axe
- Climbing multi-pitch efficiently in moderate terrain
- Down climbing in exposed and technical terrain
- Enjoy spectacular views of the Salt Lake Valley and the Great Salt Lake
Max Student : Instructor Ratio
3 : 1
Course dates don’t fit your schedule?
Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.
Course Prerequisites
- Beginner rock climbing experience is recommended.
- Basic experience using crampons and an ice axe is recommended.
Skill Level
- This is an intermediate mountaineering climb.
- Good overall fitness is necessary.
This full-day climb takes place on Mt. Olympus’ West Slabs (expect to be in the field for 10-12 hours). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (2-3 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.
SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION
The usual meeting time and place are 7:30 am at the Einstein Bros. Bagels on Wasatch Blvd in Salt Lake City, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to registered guests before the climb date.
GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR
You will be placed in a group of 2-3 with similar experience and paired with the participant(s) you requested. You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.
TRANSPORTATION & PARKING
Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.
How To Register
- Register Online
- Call us at (801) 550-3986
- Email us at [email protected]
UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 2 participants register.
Mt. Olympus Medusa Face EQUIPMENT LIST (spring/snow conditions)
- Non-cotton top – a sun shirt or hoodie will protect you from the intense sun
- Soft shell pants
- Puffy, hooded overcoat and/or other insulation layer (fleece, synthetic or down)
- Houdini or other windshirt (optional)
- Waterproof/windproof outer shell jacket and pants
- Waterproof snow gloves and mittens or spare gloves
- Lightweight climbing gloves
- Baseball cap
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- 2-3 liters of water
- Lunch and quick energy snacks
- Crampon-compatible boots
- Rock climbing shoes or sticky rubber approach shoes
- Gaiters
- Mountaineering crampons (non-rigid, 10-point lightweight designs are ideal)
- Mountaineering ice axe
- Backpack (25-45 liters)
- Harness
- Belay/rappel device and locking carabiner
- Helmet
Please see our Winter/Spring Mountaineering Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.
Recommended Books
Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range by Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers
Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.
What type of crampons should I use?
10-point, hinged, flexible, lash-on spikes made of light metal (including aluminum) are ideal and adaptable to almost any boot. Step-in crampons are fine, but they won’t fit on softer boots that lack heel and toe rands for attachment. 12-point water-ice crampons are fine, but heavier than necessary.
What type of ice axe and leash is best?
A mountaineering axe usually has a straight shaft (as opposed to the radically curved shafts and reverse-droop picks designed specifically for water-ice and mixed climbing). Some newer mountaineering axes include a bend only in the upper shaft, and this is fine. Preferred length is 50-75 cm.
Given that many Wasatch routes are on a mix of rock, ice, and snow, a shorter axe is easier to stow for pure rock moves. For this reason, a RETAINER leash connected to the harness is required so the tool can’t be dropped. The best type is a 5′ long, single-strand of 1/2″ webbing attached with a water knot on the pick side of the axe head. Wrist loops are for steep ice and are NOT helpful for mountaineering.
Should I use rock climbing shoes or approach shoes for the Face?
The Medusa Face climb and descent require a mix of hiking, scrambling and climbing; therefore well well-fitting sticky rubber approach shoes rather than tight-fitting rock climbing shoes are standard. If you do not have sticky rubber approach shoes for this course, comfortable rock climbing shoes will suffice.
How old do I need to be to climb?
Participants must be at least 14 years of age to join a group course. For custom guiding and instruction, there is no age restriction.
