Mountaineering Instruction & Skill Building
Personalized coaching accelerates learning and helps elevate you efficiently to the limit of your ability. Custom Mountaineering Instruction & Skill Building programs can include specific skills and instruction you want and need to grow as a mountaineer. Progress with a UMA guide and they can then lead you in the Tetons, Mt. Hood, Rainier, Whitney, Denali, Aconcagua, Mt. Blanc, The Matterhorn, Everest and many more ascents in the US and around the world.
What Our Guests and Students Say
Custom or private guiding means you have a guide dedicated to you or your group, rather than being in a class or clinic that is open to other guests. UMA’s outstanding guides and instructors are available daily to lead climbs and help guests progress in all aspects of climbing.
The options listed below are some, but not all, possible programs. Contact UMA to customize your outing.
Snow Mountaineering Skills
Custom instruction in the use of crampons and ice axe on snow, including self-arrest and roped travel to fit your climbing needs and goals. Excellent preparation for spring/summer climbs in Utah, the Rockies, Cascades, Alaska, etc.
Crevasse Rescue & Glacier Travel Skills
Instruction in glacial travel, belaying, snow anchors, raising systems, ascending a rope and any related skills desired. Using a simulated crevasse location, this is ideal preparation for ascents of Rainier, Denali, Gannett or other crevassed terrain.
Grand Teton Training
The Grand Teton is a world-famous mountaineering objective. The moderate technical difficulty makes it possible for most fit and athletic people. Certain skills are essential, and the Salt Lake mountains provide an excellent training venue. A custom class can be oriented to climbing with or without guides. It can be made equivalent to Exum Mountain Guides’ “Multi-pitch Level I” class.
Matterhorn Training
Build essential rock and mountaineering skills for scaling the “world’s most beautiful mountain” in the ideal terrain of the Wasatch. Train on long, moderate alpine climbs, accessible ice climbs (winter only) and snowy peaks and couloirs (December-June). Prepare to climb strong and safely on the BUSY Hornli Route on The Matterhorn, or other iconic alpine climbing routes.
This can be 1 or multiple days of training. Common training venues include Mt. Olympus, Storm Mountain, Standard Ridge, Mt. Superior, Pfeifferhorn, Great White Icicle and Provo Canyon (winter only).
Self-Rescue / AMGA Course Prep
Ever wondered what you would do if your partner gets injured on a multi-pitch route? What if your ropes get stuck while on rappel? What if your second can’t pull past a crux, or is hanging in mid-air below a roof? Or you dropped your belay device from the top of pitch 7 and now you have to rappel?
UMA’s self-rescue training will instill skills to help deal with the unexpected. The instruction can be customized to fit the needs of a SAR team, and instruction can be oriented specifically to a climber/guide preparing for an AMGA course or exam.
Have Questions or Concerns?
- Call us at (801) 550-3986
- Email us at uma@utahmountainadventures.com
Prerequisites
- No experience is required.
Skill Level & Fitness
- UMA can tailor custom guiding to your specific goals, level and time frame.
- Moderate fitness is required.
Private mountaineering trips take place in one of Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 6-8 hrs for a full day or 3-4 hrs for a half day of instruction). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (1-2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.
SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION
The usual meeting time and place are 8 am at the Big or Little Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride lots, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to registered guests before the course date.
GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR
You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to discuss your skills and goals, weather considerations and equipment needs, and to decide on a meeting time and location.
TRANSPORTATION & PARKING
Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.
How To Register
- Register Online
- Call us at (801) 550-3986
- Email us at uma@utahmountainadventures.com
Summer & Fall Mountaineering Equipment List & Local Rentals
Winter & Spring Mountaineering Equipment List & Local Rentals
Recommended Guidebooks
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers
Private guiding is customized to your personal needs and requests.
Full Days Monday through Thursday (6-8 hours)
| 1 person | $595 / person |
| 2 people | $395 / person |
| 3 people | $325 / person |
| 4 people | $275 / person |
| 5 people | $225 / person |
| 6 people | $200 / person |
Full Days on Friday, Saturday and Sunday (6-8 hours)
| 1 person | $645 / person |
| 2 people | $425 / person |
| 3 people | $350 / person |
| 4 people | $295 / person |
| 5 people | $245 / person |
| 6 people | $215 / person |
- Rates above are per guide and may vary accordingly.
- Keep in mind that certain objectives can only be accomplished with a low ratio and more than one guide may be recommended based on group size.
- State and local taxes will be added.
- Gratuity is not included.
Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.
What type of crampons should I use?
10-point, hinged, flexible, lash-on spikes made of light metal (including aluminum) are ideal and adaptable to almost any boot. Step-in crampons are fine, but they won’t fit on softer boots that lack heel and toe rands for attachment. 12-point water-ice crampons are fine, but heavier than necessary.
What type of Ice Axe and Leash is best?
A mountaineering axe usually has a straight shaft (as opposed to the radically curved shafts and reverse-droop picks designed specifically for water-ice and mixed climbing). Some newer mountaineering axes include a bend only in the upper shaft, and this is fine. Preferred length is 50-75 cm.
Given that many Wasatch routes are on a mix of rock, ice, and snow, a shorter axe is easier to stow for pure rock moves. For this reason, a RETAINER leash connected to the harness is required so the tool can’t be dropped. The best type is a 5′ long, single-strand of 1/2″ webbing attached with a water knot on the pick side of the axe head. Wrist loops are for steep ice and are NOT helpful for mountaineering.
Should I use snowshoes or skis/splitboard?
Snowshoes are recommended. Skis and splitboards are longer and get in the way while climbing the technical pitches. If using skis or a splitboard, mastery of skinning and expertise in downhill backcountry riding are required. Please discuss this with your guide.
HOW OLD DO I NEED TO BE TO CLIMB?
For private guiding and instruction, there is no age restriction. Longer approaches and long climbs are typically not appropriate for kids under 11.
