Mountaineering Camp (4-Day)

UMA’s 4-day Mountaineering Camp introduces you to the core skills of spring mountaineering in the Wasatch — no prior mountaineering experience required. With instruction from UMA’s professional guides, you’ll learn to travel efficiently across snow and mixed terrain using crampons, an ice axe and basic rope systems. From self-arrest and step-kicking to building snow anchors and navigating exposed ridgelines, each day builds your comfort and confidence in high alpine environments. Whether you’re aiming to climb classic Wasatch peaks or preparing for bigger mountain objectives, this course provides a solid foundation for safe, efficient mountain travel.

4-Day Mountaineering Camp Curriculum

Day 1: Alpine Rock Climbing

• Check gear to make sure each piece of equipment for all 4 days is in good condition and fit for its intended purpose
• Review belaying, rappelling and techniques for efficient movement on rock
• Start with a moderate rock climb, such as Reservoir Ridge
• Follow with an intermediate multi-pitch climb, like Steort’s Arete
• Belay a leader and a follower from a ledge
• Clean the protection, remove anchors and climb as a team
• Descend via pre-rigged multi-pitch rappel

Day 2: Snow Travel Skills & Toledo Peak Mixed Climb

• Ascend to Toledo Peak, West Ridge
• Climb in balance on snowy and icy surfaces
• Travel on rock, snow and ice with crampons and an axe
• Climb as a rope team with proper tension between climbers and running belays
• Multi-pitch, mixed alpine climb to the 10,500′ summit
• Descend Toledo Bowl, practicing glissading and self-arrest

Day 3: Crevasse Rescue & Glacier Travel

• Ascend to a simulated crevasse, usually a gully with a corniced lip in Alta
• Place and equalize pickets, bollards and deadman to build snow anchors
• Learn raising systems using hitches and knots learned in the camp
• Belay yourself to a crevasse lip, pad it, raise and lower a companion
• Fit Prusiks and ascend a rope

Day 4: Big Mountaineering Route

• Meet at Einstein Bagel Shop (Olympus Cove) at 6 am
• Put all skills together by climbing a longer mixed route on Mt. Olympus
• Hike and scramble to snow line and ascend snow gully using an axe and crampons
• Climb 8-10 pitches of moderate rock
• Descend by down-climbing to the west and rappelling gully system
• South Ridge of Superior, with an approach up the snow-filled Suicide Chute, is an alternate destination for this day, depending on current weather and mountain conditions

Course dates don’t fit your schedule?

Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.

Course Prerequisites

• Previous mountain experience is recommended.

Fitness & Skill Level

• You need moderate fitness for this course.
• This is an intermediate course.

This 4-day camp takes place in Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 8 hours each day). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.

SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION

The usual meeting time and place are 8 am (6 am on the last day) at the Big Cottonwood Park & Ride lot, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to enrolled participants before the course date.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.

How To Register

• Register Online
• Call us at (801) 550-3986
• Email us at [email protected]

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 2 participants register.

Mountaineering Camp EQUIPMENT LIST

• Non-cotton top – a sun shirt or hoodie will protect you from the intense sun
• Soft shell pants
• Puffy, hooded overcoat and/or other insulation layer (fleece, synthetic or down)
• Waterproof/windproof outer shell jacket and pants
• Waterproof snow gloves and mittens or spare gloves
• Lightweight climbing and/or fleece gloves
• Warm hat or balaclava for under your helmet
• Baseball cap
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• 2 liters of water
• Lunch and quick energy snacks
• Crampon-compatible mountaineering boots with rigid sole
• Mountaineering crampons
• Gaiters (to protect from crampon punctures in pants)
• Mountaineering axe
• Backpack (25-45 liters)
• Harness
• Belay device
• Helmet
• Beacon
• Shovel
• Probe
• Snowshoes and poles (check with your guide)

Please see our Winter/Spring Mountaineering Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.

Recommended Books

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers

Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.

What type of crampons should I use?

10-point, hinged, flexible, lash-on spikes made of light metal (including aluminum) are ideal and adaptable to almost any boot. Step-in crampons are fine, but they won’t fit on softer boots that lack heel and toe rands for attachment. 12-point water-ice crampons are fine, but heavier than necessary.

What type of ice axe and leash is best?

A mountaineering axe usually has a straight shaft (as opposed to the radically curved shafts and reverse-droop picks designed specifically for water-ice and mixed climbing). Some newer mountaineering axes include a bend only in the upper shaft, and this is fine. Preferred length is 50-75 cm.

Given that many Wasatch routes are on a mix of rock, ice, and snow, a shorter axe is easier to stow for pure rock moves. For this reason, a RETAINER leash connected to the harness is required so the tool can’t be dropped. The best type is a 5′ long, single-strand of 1/2″ webbing attached with a water knot on the pick side of the axe head. Wrist loops are for steep ice and are NOT helpful for mountaineering.

Is this a useful course for ski mountaineering?

Yes, UMA recommends taking Snow Mountaineering Skills to master the essential skills of self-arrest and proper use of crampons and an axe.

How old do I need to be to climb?

Participants must be at least 14 years of age to join a group course. For custom guiding and instruction, there is no age restriction.

Where do I meet my guide?

The guide will arrange a specific meeting location and time with you. Most commonly, this location is the Big Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride lot.