Mixed Alpine Climbing Camp (3-Day)

November is an underrated month here in the Wasatch. Rain dominates the Salt Lake Valley and there is rarely enough snow yet to go skiing without “core-shotting” your skis or board. Yet, there are some of the best alpine climbing conditions in the state of Utah throughout this dreary fall time. Spend 3 days with UMA’s certified guides exploring the Central Wasatch and Uinta Ranges via some of the state’s most classic mixed and alpine lines.

From roadside cragging on classics such as Scottish Gully in Big Cottonwood Canyon and the Hellgate Cliffs of SR-210 to the vast alpine terrain of the higher mountains, let UMA customize an unforgettable mixed climbing experience for you.

With the flexibility of 3 days and short access to the Wasatch Mountains, we can adapt to whatever the weather and mountain conditions may throw at us.

Common Camp Objectives

• Scottish Gully, BCC
• Triangle Gully, LCC
• Bone Collector, LCC
• Great Chimney, Mount Olympus
• Turf War, Mount Olympus

Max Student : Instructor Ratio

2 : 1

Who should take this course?

This program is designed for climbers who want to elevate their mixed climbing skills and enjoy some of the state’s best alpine venues. Participants should have familiarity with basic knots and hitches, as well as pitched rock, ice or mixed climbing. With flexible dates and locations, venues will not be determined until a few days before the program. An overnight component may be included to accommodate the inclusion of bigger alpine routes or for objectives.

Course dates don’t fit your schedule?

Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.

Course Prerequisites

• You should be familiar with basic knots and hitches.
• Experience with pitched climbing on rock, snow or ice is required.
• Familiarity with basic crampon and ice techniques is necessary.

Fitness & Skill Level

• A moderate to strong aerobic and cardio base for longer approaches is required.

This 3-day camp takes place in Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 8 hours each day). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.

SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION

The schedule and meeting location are TBD in conversation with the guide. Generally, this camp has an 8 am meeting time at a coffee shop or the park and ride lot at the base of Big or Little Cottonwood Canyon.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.

How To Register

• Register Online
• Call us at (801) 550-3986
• Email us at [email protected]

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 2 participants register.

Mixed Alpine Climbing Camp EQUIPMENT LIST

• Helmet
• Headlamp
• Beanie
• Sunglasses
• Buff
• Sun hat or ballcap for approaches
• Lightweight base layer
• Two medium-weight layers
• Hardshell jacket
• Big puffy (for belays)
• Lightweight pair of gloves
• Medium-weight pair of gloves
• Heavy pair of gloves
• Softshell climbing pants
• Hardshell rain pants (with full side zip)
• Full shank ice climbing boots (Phantom Tech, G5, etc.)
• Vertical mono point ice climbing crampons (Petzl Dart or Lynx, Grivel G20, Black Diamond Stinger, etc.)
• Harness
• 2 Locking carabiners
• Double-length Dyneema sling
• Technical ice climbing tools
• Ice tool tethers
• 2 liters of water carrying capacity
• Small first aid kit
• Food (including lunch) for 3 days of climbing

Please see our Summer/Fall Mountaineering Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.

Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.

What type of crampons should I use?

10-point, hinged, flexible, lash-on spikes made of light metal (including aluminum) are ideal and adaptable to almost any boot. Step-in crampons are fine, but they won’t fit on softer boots that lack heel and toe rands for attachment. 12-point water-ice crampons are fine, but heavier than necessary.

What type of ice axe and leash is best?

A mountaineering axe usually has a straight shaft (as opposed to the radically curved shafts and reverse-droop picks designed specifically for water-ice and mixed climbing). Some newer mountaineering axes include a bend only in the upper shaft, and this is fine. Preferred length is 50-75 cm.

Given that many Wasatch routes are on a mix of rock, ice, and snow, a shorter axe is easier to stow for pure rock moves. For this reason, a RETAINER leash connected to the harness is required so the tool can’t be dropped. The best type is a 5′ long, single-strand of 1/2″ webbing attached with a water knot on the pick side of the axe head. Wrist loops are for steep ice and are NOT helpful for mountaineering.

How old do I need to be to climb?

Participants must be at least 14 years of age to join a group course. For custom guiding and instruction, there is no age restriction.

Where do I meet my guide?

The guide will arrange a specific meeting location and time with you.