Learn to Lead Ice

UMA’s Learn to Lead Ice course enables students to get on the sharp end under the tutelage of a guide. Anchor building and implemented rappel anchors are taught at the base of the climb, as are lead-belaying and fall-catching specific to ice. The guide will discuss route-finding considerations in both micro and macro sense, and teach you how to select an efficient stance and optimal ice for placement before putting in ice screws. Participants will do “mock leads” with a top rope for security when learning to lead.

Learn To Lead Ice Course Outcomes

• Guests will do “mock leads” (a top rope will be used for security while learning)
• Practice placing ice screws
• Learn to select safe and optimal placement locations
• Identify and use stances for placing screws efficiently
• Create solid anchors with modern-day techniques and optimal screw placements
• Learn how to build ice threads and best practices for rappel anchors
• Gain knowledge of the importance of micro and macro route finding in the mountains and on ice climbs

Course dates don’t fit your schedule?

Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course but the dates don’t fit your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.

Course Prerequisites

• You must be an experienced, confident top rope ice climber who has at least 20+ hours of experience ice climbing on top rope and/or following a lead climber.
• Taking UMA’s Ice Climbing 2 before this course is recommended.

This is a full-day course; expect to be at the crag for up to 8 hours. Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (1-2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.

MEETING TIME & LOCATION

Guides typically meet guests in Provo Canyon at the Nunn’s Park exit parking lot on the south side of the road at 7:30 am. Situated near excellent ice climbing venues, we typically take advantage of the lower curtains of the world-class Stairway to Heaven formation in Provo Canyon, which is easily accessible by a 20-minute hike.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.

How To Register

• Register Online
• Call us at (801) 550-3986
• Email us at [email protected]

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the course if fewer than 2 participants register.

Learn to Lead Ice Climbing COURSE EQUIPMENT LIST

• Non-cotton top and bottom base layers
• Puffy overcoat and/or insulation layer (fleece, synthetic or down, preferably with a hood)
• Waterproof/windproof outer shell jacket and pants
• Waterproof snow gloves and mittens or spare gloves
• Warm hat, balaclava or such for under your helmet
• Sunglasses and/or clear, protective eyeglasses (optional)
• 1-2 liters of water (thermos of tea or coffee optional)
• Lunch and quick energy snacks
• Backpack (25-45 liters)
• Warm, crampon-compatible mountain boots with a rigid sole
• Gaiters to protect pants from crampon punctures (optional)
• Vertical, water-ice crampons (12-point recommended)
• 2 water-ice tools
• Harness
• Belay/rappel device and locking carabiner
• Helmet
• Ice screws (optional)
• Personal anchor system (optional)
• Slings and quickdraws (optional)

Please see our Ice Climbing Gear List & Rentals page for information on the items UMA provides and local shops where you can rent or purchase gear.

Recommended Guidebooks

Ice Climbing Utah by David S. Black
Beehive Ice by Nikki Smith and Andrew Burr

Please see our main FAQ page for general questions or for anything not covered below. 

Will I be able to practice leading?

Yes, but a backup top rope is always included for safety.

Do I need my own climbing rack?

Your guide will have all the necessary gear. If you own ice screws or other equipment for lead climbing, a personal anchor system or other ice climbing gear, we encourage you to bring it so you can learn how to use your own equipment.

Where do I meet my guide?

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide(s). They will contact you to confirm meeting time and location, as well as weather considerations and equipment needs. Most likely, you will be meeting at the Nunn’s Park exit parking lot on the south side of the road.