Skip to main content
mountaineering summer traverse uma 1
Thumbnail of course thumbnail Thumbnail of http://alpine%20traverse%20devils%20castle%20lcc%20uma Thumbnail of http://mountaineering%20light%20fast%20alpinism%20olympus%20traverse%20crux%20uma Thumbnail of http://mountaineering%20light%20fast%20alpinism%20broads%20fork%20triple%20traverse%20deaf%20smith%20canyon%20uma Thumbnail of http://mountaineering%20light%20fast%20alpinism%20airy%20traverse%20cottonwood%20crest%20broads%20fork%20triple%20traverse

Guided Alpine Traverses

Alpine traverses have become a favorite for UMA guides and guests alike. Traversing combines rock climbing and trail running into a scenic, aerobic adventure. The goal is to travel light and fast to cover lots of terrain, and the Salt Lake mountains offer great terrain for it. Hire a private guide and cross a few iconic traverses off your bucket list!

Custom or private guiding means you have a guide dedicated to you or your group, rather than being in a class or clinic that is open to other guests. UMA’s outstanding guides and instructors are available daily to lead climbs and help guests progress in all aspects of traversing.

A skilled and fit UMA guide knows how to stick to the crest whenever possible, yet avoid very difficult sections such that the rope is rarely needed. Sticky-rubber approach shoes work for rock moves interspersed with hiking and scrambling. Spring through fall is the primary season for guided alpine traverses in the Wasatch.

Some of our favorite Wasatch alpine traverses include the following (many other routes are also available). The options listed below are some, but not all, possible alpine climbs. Contact UMA to customize your outing.

Devils Castle Traverse

Get a taste of traversing in a short day of climbing, up and over the airy summit of Devils Castle above Alta. Enjoy commanding views of Albion Basin, American Fork and the Wasatch Range. The route’s dark limestone offers good handholds and ancient sea shell fossils. Summer and early fall are the best seasons for dry rock and stable weather.

Traverse of the Goddesses

After scaling the West Slabs of Mt. Olympus, scramble east to the North Summit. Enjoy the expansive view north from this tiny summit, then head south. The route now traverses over 5 points (“the goddesses”) to finish at the Main (South) Summit at 9,026′. Descent is via down-climbing to the south, then hiking down the well-trodden Mt. Olympus trail.

Wildcat Traverse

This traverse starts from the South (Main) Summit of Olympus and follows the ridge east to Mt. Raymond. Third and 4th-class scrambling on solid quartzite starts right away and continues to Triangle Peak. Six other high points are traversed as route-finding, and up and down-climbing keep the route interesting. Neffs Canyon provides a good bail-off point and friendly trail descent past an idyllic mountain spring. Be prepared for an aerobic, scenic experience far from crowds, featuring both technical and hiking sections.

Typically, 1,000′ of exposed climbing along the knife-edge crest is roped. Protection includes slings, passive protection, snow-pro, stoppers and cams. Guides may employ running belays, short-pitching and short-roping. Descent is generally along the easier East Ridge and down to Alta via Cardiff Pass.

Triple Traverse

Reigning magnificent and 7,000′ above the Wasatch Front are 3 impressive mountains: Dromedary, Sunrise (O’Sullivan) and the Salt Lake Twin Peaks. Traversing the 3 massifs is a Triple Crown of sorts, and makes for a cool, scenic scramble in the sky. It can be done from Broads Fork, Lisa Falls or Ferguson Canyon, and is also part of the Cottonwood Crest or WURL (Wasatch Ultimate Ridge Linkup mega-traverse). The best season for the Triple Traverse is mid-summer through early fall.

Red, White & Tram Traverse

When the summer is hot and the snow is gone, escape to the highest traverse in the Central Wasatch: White Pine to Snowbird via Red and White Baldy and the AF Twin Peaks. White Baldy (at 11,321′) features a long, scenic summit ridge with dozens of climbing moves over solid granite. Next up is Red Baldy, named for its bright, reddish rock. Feast your eyes on amazing views, both far and near, when you look up from the exposed 4th-class scrambling.

At East Pass, the technical difficulty gives way to an air-conditioned aerobic push over Red Stack, AF Twin (11,489′) and the East Twin. The descent into Snowbird is on a smorgasbord of quartzite, slate, shale and limestone. Catching a free ride down from Hidden Peak on the Tram is a relief for the knees and just reward after a rugged scramble in the sky.

Other Classic Traverses
  • Beatout: Pfeifferhorn to Bells Canyon (10-12 hours)
  • Cottonwood Crest: Salt Lake Twins to Alta, or vice versa (12-18 hours)
  • Cathedral Traverse in Tetons (2 days)
  • WURL: Lone Peak to Salt Lake Twin Peaks via the LCC rim (2 days+)
  • Grand Traverse in Tetons (3 days)
Have Questions or Concerns?
Prerequisites
  • Prerequisites vary based on the trip.
  • Hiking, scrambling and climbing experience is recommended.
Skill Level & Fitness
  • UMA can tailor custom guiding to your specific goals, levels and time frame.
  • Beginner to advanced trips are available.
  • Good aerobic fitness is necessary.

Private mountaineering trips take place in one of Salt Lake City’s local canyons (expect to be in the field for 4-12 hours, depending on the traverse, and overnight for multi-day trips). Guests are expected to bring their own snacks, lunch and water (1-2 liters). UMA does not provide transportation. We encourage carpooling to help mitigate traffic in the canyons and crowded parking areas.

SCHEDULE & MEETING LOCATION

The usual meeting time and place are 6 am – 8 am at the Big or Little Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride lots, but these are subject to change. Exact meeting times and locations will be provided to registered guests before the course date.

GUIDE/INSTRUCTOR

You will receive a reminder with the contact information for your guide/instructor. They will contact you to discuss your skills and goals, weather considerations and equipment needs, and to decide on a meeting time and location.

TRANSPORTATION & PARKING

Transportation will not be provided. Most canyon parking lots require a parking fee.

How To Register

Private guiding is customized to your personal needs and requests. Rates may vary accordingly. State and local taxes will be added. Gratuity not included.

Please contact us for trip options and pricing.

Please see the Mountaineering section on our main FAQ page for common course questions.

Share